Venice 2013: Art, Vongole and Aperol Spritz

A trip to the Venice Biennale 2013 in photos.

If you happen to be in Italy this year, try and visit the Venice Art Biennale. The city is buzzing, the aperol is flowing, the art is overflowing and spaghetti alla vongole is everywhere. It is impossible to see it all – it’s a bit like going to disneyland and being told that you have two hours to see everything!

Here is a little snapshot tour of our trip to the Biennale for the opening week in early June. At the bottom, I have listed our art and restaurant highlights.

Setting the scene. The giant Marc Quinn blow-up statue of Alison Lapper. huge!

Breakfast donut at the Cipriani. Good alternative to fresh fruit?

Linguini gratin with ham and cheese at the Cipriani.

Excellent chocolate souffle. Cipriani’s Fortuny.

Ai Weiwei’s ‘Straight’ on Giudecca Island, worth a visit. A video tells the story.

Aperol Spritz with canal view at Altanella on Giudecca Island.

The shells of our vongole piled up high. Altanella.

Huge passenger liners pass right through the Venice lagoon. Astounding.

Bellini, Carafe of Wine, View from Giudecca. Harry’s Dolci.

Linguini with tomato and basil. Delicious at Harry’s Dolci.

Baby artichokes at the ‘corner shop’ on Guidecca.

Tavares Strachan’s walrus at the FANTASTIC Bahamas pavillion.

My favourite piece of the Biennale: Tavares Strachan’s INCREDIBLE Bear at the Bahamas pavillion.

Valentin Carron at the Swiss pavillion in the Giardini. Fabulous!

Trumpet by Valentin Carron. Caught our attention!

Modern Venice. Aperol Spritz at Il Ridotto.

The modern Venice. Mediterranean risotto at Il Ridotto

Copper wire sculptures at the Palazzo Bembo exhibition. LOVED!!

Sam Jinks at the Palazzo Bembo. A MUST-SEE!

Rialto Markets. Artichoke hearts already prepared.

Rialto Markets. What a selection of dried tomatoes of all types and sizes.

Fish Markets at the Rialto Bridge. Sea Snails

Penne Amatriciana. Who can remember where? Not us!

Perfect pasta. Lisa’s best of the trip. Harry’s Bar. Tagliarelli alla Amatriciana.

Simryn Gill’s beautiful wall in the Australian pavillion at the Biennale.

Alla Vedova. Famous for their meatballs. Deep fried deliciousness.

Alla Vedova’s Spaghetti alla Vongole. Nice.

Mark Manders’ work in the Netherlands’ pavillion at the Giardini. Amazing.

A giant version. The Netherlands’ pavillion at the Giardini. A giant amazing.

Czech pavillion at the Giardini at Biennale. Stacks.

Finland. Antti Laitinen has cut and reassembled trees.

Finland’s Antti Laitinen’s fantastic collage of a square of forest that had been sorted and divided. Fantastic!

A delicious little sweet choc coated ice cream treat at Da Ivo: ‘Bocconcino Dai dai’

My favourite piece at China’s pavillion (Arsenale): ‘Temporary Ward’ by Wang Qingsong. Mesmerising!

Marc Quinn’s Flesh. Quite an incredible painting.

Marc Quinn. Beautiful. Exhibition at San Giorgia Maggiore.

Huge passenger liners cruise through the Venice waterway.

Hosteria da Franz. Amazing salad of baby artichokes, rocket and parmiggiano

Bigoli in Salsa, Tradiitonal Venetian buckwheat pasta with anchovies and onion at da Franz.

An OTT uber-decorated macchiato. Da Franz.

My Art Highlights:

Personal Structures at Palazzo Bembo

Francois Pinault’s Punta della Dogana

Giardini: We didn’t get to them all but my favourites are Australia, Israel, Russia, Finland, Netherlands, Czech Republic and Switzerland.

Arsenale: Again, we only saw a handful. The Bahamas pavillion (Tavares Strachan) is a really wonderful exhibition and China’s Wang Qingsong’s photographs are great.

My Food Highlights:

Harry’s Bar – make sure you book ahead; must have a bellini (or 3) and the amatriciana

Harry’s Dolci (On the Giudecca side of the lagoon) – bellini and the linguini with tomato and basil

Da Ivo – traditional small Venetian restaurant alongside a canal; aperol spritz and spaghetti alla vongole

Trattoria Altanella (Giudecca) – set right on the canal, simple restaurant with lovely food. Aperol spritz and spaghetti alla vongole.

Lisa Goldberg

Lisa embraces the part of Jewish culture which embodies the saying ‘it’s always about the food’. She is a fresser with an unbridled passion for eating, cooking and nurturing those around her with food. Her legal background has given her a great foundation to help guide – and work side by side with – this truly amazing bunch of kind, funny and enlightening women to produce and publish four extraordinary cookbooks. She feels incredibly grateful to have had (and still has) the opportunity – since 2006 – to spend so much of her time dedicated to, and fully immersed in, such a delicious, inspiring and worthwhile project.

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One Comment

business Penelope January 23, 2017 at 10:54 pm

so pretty

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The Venice art that made my heart go boom:

Ugo Rondinone at Scuola Grande San Giovanni Evangelista. I love Ugo. These spectacular illuminated blue bodies floating in the church are just

Chun Kwang Young at Palazzo Contarini Polignac - I first noticed and loved his work years ago at the Hong Kong art Basel, so it's v exciting to have found him again.

Anselm Kiefer at the Doge's Palace: no word to describe the scale and beauty of this work. A must must must see. Even if you have to traipse through every room in the Palace to get to THE room.

Anish Kapoor at Accademia + Palazzo Manfrin: Incredible in many ways, worth looking at and wondering (and still wondering) what it all means.

Carole Feuerman at Santa Maria Della Pietà: just love her figures, so beautiful to look at.

The Brazil pavilion at the Giardini: many hundreds of Potuguese sayings, translated into Italian and English, with related artworks and drawings. Funny and surprising and needed more time.

Also really worth a visit - This is Ukraine: defending freedom at Scuola Grande della Misericordia and The Dutch Pavillion 'when the body says yes' at the nearby Chiesetta della Misericrodia.

And we shvitzed all the way every day!

Lisa 🥵

P.s and there was so much we couldn't get to and missed!! You can only do what you can do in 4 days in Venice!

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